Ticken
100% hemp, white, 12 oz., 60" wide, $17.00/yd.
WHD 099

Ticken is a twill weave linen tending to be finer than Russia drill. Ticken was usually striped but was white as well. Used for the same purposes as Russia drill but there are more references for ticken in England. Ticken was commonly used to make breeches, waistcoats, pillows, and bed ticks. Less commonly ticken was used to make trousers, jackets, coats, and women's pockets. The sailor's contract of 1706 called for ticken waistcoats and breeches. Hand sewing this project would work well using 35/2 white or off white linen thread. In The Virginia Gazette of 1737, "ran away from the Subscriber, Two Convict Servant Men. One is an Irish Man . . .  professes himself a Gardener by Trade; and took with him . . .  one pair of Ticken Breeches".

Russia Drill
100% hemp, 12.5 oz., 59" wide, $17.00/yd.
WHP 100

Russia drilling or drill is a stout twilled fabric used to make civilian clothing, usually breeches and trousers, but occasionally coats or jackets. For example in The Virginia Gazette in 1775 "Run away from the Subscriber . . .  a Convict Servant Lad . . .  a Native of London . . .  He had on, and took with him . . .  Russia Drill Breeches". Hand sewing this project would work well using 35/2 or 16/2 off white or unbleahced linen thread.

Russia drilling had military uses also. Drill was used in summer-weight clothing in the French & Indian War, by New-York's Provincial Congress, who bought Russia-drilling for the waistcoats and breeches of its four 1775 regiments, and by some British and loyalist regiments in America after 1778 and made by the regimental tailors into breeches, waistcoats, and overalls.

Hemp Sheeting, Drab & Canvas, 100% hemp, 59" wide, $17.00/yd.
Russia Sheeting, WHP 101, 11 oz.
Russia Drab Sheeting, WHP 102, 14 oz.

Russia-sheeting & Russia-canvas were both plain weave hemp linens. Fabric made of finer weight threads was called sheeting & heavier weights canvas. Russia duck was hemp sheeting with a glazed finish to help shed water. Glazed hemps are not commercially available today. Russia drab was simply any coarse hemp fabric that is left unbleached and therefore of a drab color similar to our 14 oz. sheeting.

Very strong Russia canvas, sheeting, and drab were used to make sturdy knapsacks, spatterdashes, haversacks, drop cloths, bags, market wallets, chair seats, and clothing. Negro slaves were given shirts made of canvas. Sometimes used for durable waistcoats and breeches, and for sailor's trousers. Women's stays were often made of canvas since the rubbing of the boning will wear through weaker fabrics. In Virginia Gazette in 1772, "RUN away from the Ship POLLY . . .  [a] Seamen WILLIAM STEVENS . . .  he had on when he went away . . .  short Canvas Trousers." For another example in The Virginia Gazette in 1773, "COMMITTED to the gaol . . .  a runaway Negro man . . .  had on a Russia sheeting coat and breeches". If you will be hand sewing your project try our 35/2 or 16/2 unbleached or off white linen thread.

Diaper Cloth, 55% hemp/45% cotton, 9 oz. 60" wide, $12.50/yd.
WHP 105

Diaper cloth was used to make men's waistcoats and breeches, women's petticoats, pockets, tablecloths and napkins. In 1778 as advertised in the Pennsylvania Packet, several items were "Stolen by . . .  a Frenchman . . .  Said thief had on . . .  a pair of white diaper breeches". In the 1764, Pennsylvania Gazette a merchant was selling "fringed diaper tablecloths". Linen thread in either 35/2 or 60/2 off white would work best for hand sewing.

Indigo 1/8" Stripe, 55% hemp/45% cotton, 8.5 oz., 58" wide, $12.50/yd.
WHP 107

Hemp linen that is tightly woven and prewashed like this has numerous uses. For the ladies: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For the gentlemen: waistcoats, jackets, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stipe linen is an excellent choice of fabric for children's clothing too. For example in The Virginia Gazette in 1746 "RAN away . . .  a lusty well-set Irish Servant Woman . . .  She took with her a Blue and White strip'd Virginia-Cloth Gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 or 60/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue matches this fabric well. Tape of matching color is usually what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns.