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Basics | Solid Colors | Checks and Stripes Linen Checks and Stripes100% linenBesides white and unbleached linen the next most common described in 18th century documents are stripes and checks. These provided patterned fabric without the expense of block printing. Most common were blue on white then brown on white then mixes of those colors. After these (most common) colors, black, red, gray, yellow, and green were less common colors woven into checks and stripes. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870. |
Brown 1/8" Stripe, 55% hemp/45% organic cotton, 8.5 oz., 59" wide, $14.00/yd.
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Light Brown Stripe WLN 328
Brown and white stripe was another very common linen for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. This linen has numerous uses for women in petticoats, gowns and jackets and for men in waistcoats, and shirts. Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing and linings too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Was stolen . . . an apprentice girl . . . She was stolen by her mother [who] . . . had on a small striped linen gown and petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural would compliment this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Brown on Brown 3/8" Check WLN 525100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd. Brown check linen is only slightly less common than blue check linen. It is a good choice for household linens and working class men's shirts since it does not show the dirt. It may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), or men's trousers. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1772 "RAN away . . . an English convict servant man . . . who has been brought up to the farming business . . . Had on and took with him . . . a new dowlas shirt, a check linen ditto" dowlas is a coarse linen and ditto means the same as. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will blend well with this fabric. |
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Brown 3/16" Stripe WLN 539100% Linen, 57" Wide, $14.50/yd. Although not quite as common as blue, brown was the second most abundant stripe linen found in 18th century swatch books. Stripe linens were often used to make women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats and men's waistcoats, shirts and linings. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . had on . . . an old Dutch upper petticoat, striped, of a dirty colour". Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing matches this material. |
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Brown Stripe WLN 537100% Linen, 54" Wide, $14.50/yd. Next to blue in commonality brown stripes were widely used throughout the 18th century in America and Europe. Stripe linens were often used to make women's jackets, gowns and petticoats and men's shirts, waistcoats and linings. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776 "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a new striped homespun linen gown . . . [and] took with her two striped linen short gowns, one a dark stripe, pieced at the sleeves with stripe of another sort". The stripe in this linen is 3/8 inch apart. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing matches this material. |
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Blue and Tow 1" Stripe WLN 509100% Linen, 59" Wide, $11/yd. Blue stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. With time in the sun and washings the unbleached stripe will fade to an off white. Blue stripes were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's trousers (especially sailor's trousers often called slops were made of wide stripes), waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue stripe linen. In the 1775 Newport Mercury, an ad included "RAN away . . . a NEGRO MAN . . . had on, and carried with him . . . striped blue and white tow-trowsers" as well as a sailor's jacket cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Blue and Oatmeal 1" Stripe WLN 542100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd. Blue stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. With time in the sun and washings the oatmeal stripe will fade to an off white. Blue stripes were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's trousers (especially sailor's trousers often called slops were made of wide stripes), waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue stripe linen. In the 1776 Pennsylvania Gazette, an ad included "Ran away . . . a servant woman . . . she stole and took with her . . . a half worn blue and brown petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Indigo 1/8" Stripe WHP 107
This fabric is out of stock until mid Febuary. Blue and white stripe was very common for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. It is repeatedly described in runaway descriptions and several original garments are made of very similar linen. This hemp blend is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, shirts, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . Had on, when she went away, a blue and white striped linen gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue all match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Blue and Yellow Stripe WLN 526100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd. A bit unusual but still within the range of colors of vegetable dyes is this mustard yellow, white and blue stripe. The best use for this linen is for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns although men's waistcoats and shirts as well as linings may be made from this linen. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . . three Convicts, viz . . . a Scotch Woman . . . she had on, and took away with her, a Variety of Petticoats, and Bed Gowns of different Stripes and Colours." This quote is taken from Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls Either off white or unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and off white or blue 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Blue and White 1/8" Check WLG 153100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd. Blue and white check linen was likely the most common check fabric produced during the 18th and into the early 19th century. It is repeatedly described in runaway ads and this fabric is nearly identical that of the apron illustrated in Fitting & Proper on pages 97 to 99. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1773 Newport Mercury, "Ran away . . . an indented Irish maid servant . . . and is supposed to have had on . . . a checked apron" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White 1/4" Check WLN 538100% Linen, 58" Wide, $14.50/yd. Blue and white line checks like this are the most common in the billet books at the Foundling Museum in London. This illustrates how common this sort of check was used by the poor. Blue and white check linen is repeatedly described in runaway ads. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1770 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . an English servant woman . . . took with her . . . several aprons, one of them check linen" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Black and Natural 1/8" Check WLN 518100% Linen, 57" Wide, $12.00/yd. Black and white check linen is a good choice for working class men's shirts but it may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), or men's trousers. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1767 "an indentured servant man . . . by trade a bricklayer, born in Perth in Scotland . . . and, as he was some time in England, has not much of the Scotch accent. Had with him . . . several white and check linen shirts". Black 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and black or natural 1" cotton twill tape matches this material. Matching tape is often used for binding gowns. |
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Black and White 1/4" Check WLM 200100% Linen, 57" Wide, $9.00/yd. Small black and white check linen was used throughout the 18th century to make men's shirts or and as a lining material. Much less commonly women's gowns and petticoats were made of check linens. The black stripes are 2 threads (just less than 1/8") wide and separated by 1/4" of white. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1732, during the trial of highway robbery the prisoner asked "Was I in the same Dress as I am in now?" and the constable replied "No, you was in a Sailor's Dress, with a Check Shirt.". White linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing would be a good choice. |
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Black 1/8" Check WLN 314100% Linen, 62" Wide, $12.00/yd. The warp of this linen has a 1/8" wide black stripe and the weft has a natural 1/8" wide stripe making this fabric a check. The natural stripe is so subtle that it is hardly noticeable. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Stripe petticoats, gowns, and women's jackets were very common and since the natural stripe is hardly noticeable this linen would be a good choice. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . . living in Newtown township, Gloucester county, West New Jersey, opposite Philadelphia, three Dutch servants; two . . . man and wife . . . his wife . . . had on, when she went away, a check linen short gown, with an apron to it" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and white, black or natural 1" cotton twill tape would all match this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and gowns. |
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Unbleached Off White Stripe WLN 122100% Linen, 3 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $8.99/yd. The light stripe is 3/8" wide separated by unbleached linen of 2". Each stripe has 3 off white pin stripes set to one side of the unbleached stripe making this a subtle asymmetrical stripe. Stripes were very commonly used for women's gowns and petticoats and sometimes for men's jackets and waistcoats. In 1779 written in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Was stolen last night from the subscriber living at the Unicorn tavern…16 miles from Philadelphia, the following articles, viz . . . two striped linen short gowns" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. When hand sewing this linen try 35/2 unbleached linen thread. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 541100% Linen, 60" Wide, $12.00/yd. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in American runaway ads. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The New-Jersey Journal of 1779 "Ran away . . . an apprentice girl . . . had on and took away with her . . . three striped short gowns, one of linsey, the other two of tow and linen". This quote is taken from Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 527100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in the American colonies. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1783 "Run Away . . . a likely, tall, strait and slender made Negroe Wench . . . born in Augusta, in the State of Georgia, but lately from the State of New Jersey and Philadelphia; had on and took with her, a striped blue and white linsey petticoat, one striped tow ditto". Ditto means the same as. This quote is taken from Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen 1" Stripe WLN 528100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in the American colonies. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat, trousers or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The Maryland Gazette of 1775 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant . . . his apparel is . . . striped linen trousers". This quote is taken from Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Large Small Stripe WLG 209100% Linen, 55" Wide, $10.00/yd. Stripe linens were very common for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts were also often striped as were linings. In the 1778 Connecticut Courant, "Run away from the subscriber, a Negro woman . . . country born, had on when she went away a striped tow and linen gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Light Brown and White 1/4" Check WLN 514100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd. Brown and white check was only slightly less common than blue and white. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Much less common are the occasional check shortgowns or petticoats. In the 1776 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . the following servants, viz. Frederick Brick, a German, born in the country of Hesse . . . speaks good Hollandish and German . . . Had on and took with him . . . one white and three check shirts" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape, will match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Dark Green Stripe WLN 543100% Linen, 54" Wide, $14.50/yd. Less common than blue or brown green stripe does show up in Europe and America in the 18th century. Stripe linens were often used to make women's jackets, gowns and petticoats and men's shirts, waistcoats and linings. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776 "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a new striped homespun linen gown . . . [and] took with her two striped linen short gowns, one a dark stripe, pieced at the sleeves with stripe of another sort" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. The stripe in this linen is 5/8 inch apart. Green 50/3 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric. |
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Green Stripe WLN 544100% Linen, 60" Wide, $12.00/yd. Although not as common as other stripes, green stripe does show up in Europe and America in the 18th century. Stripe linens were often used to make women's jackets, gowns and petticoats and men's shirts, waistcoats and linings. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1777 "Run away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on, when she went away, a . . . green striped petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. The stripe in this linen is 5/8 inch apart. Medium green 50/3 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric. |
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Ivory on Ivory Linen Stripe WLN 458100% Linen, 62" Wide, $10.00/yd.
The slightly less than 1/8" (3 mm) stripe is formed by using slightly larger threads and varying the weave in the weft. Very similar fabrics were called dorea in the 18th century. This fabric is correct for 18th century lady's neck and pocket handkerchiefs and early 19th century gowns. When hand sewing try off white 35/2 linen thread. |
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100% Linen Check WLG 160100% Linen, 60" Wide, $19.00/yd. The 1/4" (6 mm) check in this sheer linen is formed by varying the tightness of the weave. Very similar fabrics were called dorea in the 18th century. This fabric is correct for lady's neck and pocket handkerchiefs and early 19th century gowns. When hand sewing try white 60/2 linen thread. |
