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Basics | Solid Colors | Checks and Stripes Linen Checks and Stripes100% linenBesides white and unbleached linen the next most common described in 18th century documents are stripes and checks. These provided patterned fabric without the expense of block printing. Most common were blue on white then brown on white then mixes of those colors. After these (most common) colors, black, red, gray, yellow, and green were less common colors woven into checks and stripes. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870. |
Blue and White 1/16" Stripe WLV 603
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. From personal communication with Mike Barbieri in the 1775 Norwich Packet, an ad included "Stolen . . . one black Padusoy Gown; one striped blue and white do." Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Blue and White 3/16" Stripe WLN 566
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1779 Pennsylvania Evening Post, an ad included "Ran away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . She had on a blue and white striped linen short gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Light Blue and White 1/8" Stripe WLN 556
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1794 Kentucky Gazette, an ad included "Run away . . . a negro man . . . had on and took with him . . . a striped blue and white waistcoat". Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Light Blue and White Stripe WLN 516
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1771 New York Journal, an ad included "Run away . . . in New York . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on a broad blue and white striped homespun petticoat, and a smaller striped blue and white jacket" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Indigo 1/8" Stripe WHP 107
Blue and white stripe was very common for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. It is repeatedly described in runaway descriptions and several original garments are made of very similar linen. This hemp blend is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, shirts, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . Had on, when she went away, a blue and white striped linen gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue all match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Blue and White 3/16" Check WLN 565100% Linen, ~4 oz., 60" Wide, $12.00/yd. Although many checks today are made of equal amounts of blue and white most 18th century checks were more white than blue. This check is very similar to many in found in The Foundling Museum in London. Although we call this blue and white it is really blue and natural with a barely discernible strip of white between the blue and natural. Most 18th century whites worn by the poor are not as bright as our whites today. This fabric was commonly made into neck handkerchiefs, women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1774 an ad included "RUN away . . . three Servant Men, [one] . . . born in England . . . and is a Carpenter and Joiner by Trade; had on, and took with him, one Check Shirt" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white or unbleached 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White Check WLN 56055% Linen, 45% Cotton, 58" Wide, $10.00/yd. This blue and white check linen with several bars crossing in a symmetrical pattern is similar to many found in the swatches at The Foundling Museum in London. Blue and white check linen was likely the most common check fabric produced during the 18th and into the early 19th century. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1775 Connecticut Journal, "Runaway . . . two indented Servant Men, one . . . a weaver by trade . . . had on a . . . checkt shirt" in personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White 1/16" Check WLN 553100% Linen, 56" Wide, $12.00/yd. Blue and white check linen was likely the most common check fabric produced during the 18th and into the early 19th century. It is repeatedly described in runaway ads and this fabric is nearly identical that of the apron illustrated in Fitting & Proper on pages 97 to 99. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1773 Newport Mercury, "Ran away . . . an indented Irish maid servant . . . and is supposed to have had on . . . a checked apron" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White 1/4" Check WLN 538100% Linen, 58" Wide, $14.50/yd. Most checks available today are half white and half blue. The majority of checks found in the billet books at The Foundling Museum in London are mostly white with narrower blue stripes making this check far more common throughout the 18th century than many other checks. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1770 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . an English servant woman . . . took with her . . . several aprons, one of them check linen" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Red and White 1/4" Check WLN 539100% Linen, 58" Wide, $14.50/yd.
Most checks available today are half white and half color. The majority of checks found in the billet books at The Foundling Museum in London are mostly white with narrower stripes making this check far more common throughout the 18th century than many other checks and this fabric is just about dead on to one in The Foundling Museum. This fabric was made into men's shirts, trousers and jackets but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros). In the 1773 The Virginia Gazette, "RUN away . . . two Convict Servant Men [one of them] by Trade a Cooper, born in Ireland . . . He had on, and carried with him . . . a red and white cross striped Cotton and Linen Jacket double breasted". White 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Brown 1/8" Stripe, 55% hemp/45% organic cotton, 8.5 oz., 59" wide, $14.00/yd.
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Brown 3/16" Stripe WLN 539100% Linen, 57" Wide, $14.50/yd. Although not quite as common as blue, brown was the second most abundant stripe linen found in 18th century swatch books. Stripe linens were often used to make women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats and men's waistcoats, shirts and linings. For example advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . . a Dutch servant girl . . . had on . . . an old Dutch upper petticoat, striped, of a dirty colour". Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing matches this material. |
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Brown Stripe WLN 558100% Linen, ~7 oz., 59" Wide, $14.00/yd. Next to blue in commonality brown stripes were widely used throughout the 18th century in America and Europe. Stripe linens were often used to make women's jackets, gowns and petticoats and men's waistcoats jackets and linings. In personal communication with Mike Barbieri The Essex Gazette of 1775 had an ad reporting "Run away . . . a Boy . . . carried with him a . . . striped linen Jacket." The stripe in this linen is 3/8 inch apart. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing matches this material. |
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Red 1/8" Stripe WHP 109
Red and white stripe linen was not as common as other colors but it does show up occasionally. This hemp linen is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, trousers, breeches, shirts, work aprons, workmen's caps, and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Virginia Gazette of 1773, "RUN away . . . two convict servant men . . . [one of them] by trade a cooper, born in Ireland, and has a good deal of the brougue . . . Had on, and carried with him . . . a red and white striped cotton and linen jacket, with sleeves, double breasted, and the stripes across". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural matches this fabric well. Tape of matching color is sometimes what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Light Blue and Yellow Stripe WLN 551
This blue and light yellow 1/4" stripe makes a nice variation to the ever so common blue and white stripe. This will make a light summer petticoat, jacket, or gown. It could also be used for a man's waistcoat or shirt or as a lining. In the 1770 New York Gazette, an ad included "Run away . . . a Mustee Wench . . . Had on when . . . several striped Pettycoats" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white 35/2 linen thread may be used for hand sewing. |
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Black 1/8" Check WLN 314100% Linen, 62" Wide, $12.00/yd. The warp of this linen has a 1/8" wide black stripe and the weft has a natural 1/8" wide stripe making this fabric a check. The natural stripe is so subtle that it is hardly noticeable. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Stripe petticoats, gowns, and women's jackets were very common and since the natural stripe is hardly noticeable this linen would be a good choice. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . . living in Newtown township, Gloucester county, West New Jersey, opposite Philadelphia, three Dutch servants; two . . . man and wife . . . his wife . . . had on, when she went away, a check linen short gown, with an apron to it" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and white, black or natural 1" cotton twill tape would all match this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and gowns. |
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Grey Stripe WLN 550100% Linen, 58" Wide, $11.00/yd. This 1/4" gray and white stripe can be made into men's shirts trousers and women's gowns (usually Negros). In the 1770 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . a servant girl . . . had on, and took with her . . . two short loose gowns, the one striped linsey, the other striped linen" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Either white or unbleached 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 541100% Linen, 60" Wide, $10.00/yd. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in American runaway ads. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The New-Jersey Journal of 1779 "Ran away . . . an apprentice girl . . . had on and took away with her . . . three striped short gowns, one of linsey, the other two of tow and linen". This quote is taken from Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 567100% Linen, 60" Wide, $10.00/yd. This stripe has a one inch unbleached stripe bound by natural died linen seperated by one inch of off white linen. This linen is the counterpart to the check linen WLN 568 but lacks the unbleached stripe in the weft. Tow and linen stripes were often described throughout 18th century America for clothing of laboring people and is frequently included in runaway ads north of Virginia. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jacket, and gown. Men's waistcoat and shirt as well as an occasional lining were also made of tow and linen. In particular one inch wide stripes were used for men's trousers. In 1771 the Newport Mercury published, "RAN AWAY . . . an Apprentice Lad . . . a Shoemaker by Trade; had on and carried away . . . two Shirts, the one striped Tow and Linen, the other Checks" cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and natural or white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is Sometimes used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 55955% Linen, 45% Cotton, 59" Wide, $10.00/yd. This tow and linen stripe are 7/16" each in width. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in the American colonies as are shirts. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The Newport Mercury of 1771 "RAN AWAY . . . an Apprentice Lad . . . a Shoemaker by Trade; had on and carried away with him . . . two Shirts, the one striped Tow and Linen, the other Checks" as cited in Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rohde Island Newspapers Volume 2 by Maureen Taylor and John Sweet. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is sometimes used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Stripe WLN 55255% Linen, 45% Cotton, 57" Wide, $10.00/yd. The tow stripe is an inch and a half wide seperated by a 1/4" linen stripe. Tow and linen striped gowns are frequently described in the American colonies as are shirts. This linen would make a wonderful woman's petticoat, jacket, or gown although a man's waistcoat or shirt as well as linings may be made from this stripe linen. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1767 "RUN AWAY . . . a convict servant man . . . an Englishman . . . had on when he went away a blue homemade drugget jacket lined with striped linen". Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is sometimes used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Check WLN 56155% Linen, 45% Cotton, 58" Wide, $10.00/yd. This check linen with several bars crossing in a symmetrical pattern is similar to several found in the swatches at The Foundling Museum in London. Check linen was commonly made into men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In personal communication with Mike Barbieri there is an ad published in the 1775 Connecticut Courant, including "run away . . . an apprentice boy . . . carried away with him . . . a check linen shirt." Off white 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Tow and Linen Check WLN 568100% Linen, 60" Wide, $10.00/yd. This check linen is the counterpart to tow and linen stripe WLN 567 being identical but with a one inch unbleached stripe going along the weft making the check. Check linen was commonly made into men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), men's trousers or even bonnets. In personal communication with Mike Barbieri there is an ad published in the 1775 Providence Gazette, including "Run away . . . a Negro Boy . . . had on when he went away a Check Shirt and Trowsers." Off white or unbleached 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Ivory on Ivory Linen Stripe WLN 458100% Linen, 62" Wide, $10.00/yd. The slightly less than 1/8" (3 mm) stripe is formed by using slightly larger threads and varying the weave in the weft. Very similar fabrics were called dorea in the 18th century. This fabric is correct for 18th century lady's neck and pocket handkerchiefs and early 19th century gowns. When hand sewing try off white 35/2 linen thread. |
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100% Linen Check WLG 160100% Linen, 60" Wide, $19.00/yd. The 1/4" (6 mm) check in this sheer linen is formed by varying the tightness of the weave. Very similar fabrics were called dorea in the 18th century. This fabric is correct for lady's neck and pocket handkerchiefs and early 19th century gowns. When hand sewing try white 60/2 linen thread. |
