Linen Checks and Stripes100% linenBesides white and unbleached linen the next most common described in 18th century documents are stripes and checks. These provided patterned fabric without the expense of block printing. Most common were blue on white then brown on white then mixes of those colors. After these (most common) colors, black, red, gray, yellow, and green were less common colors woven into checks and stripes. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870. |
Blue and Tow 1" Stripe WLN 509100% Linen, 59" Wide, $11/yd.
Blue stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. With time in the sun and washings the unbleached stripe will fade to an off white. Blue stripes were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's trousers (especially sailor's trousers often called slops were made of wide stripes), waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue stripe linen. In the 1775 Newport Mercury, an ad included "RAN away . . . a NEGRO MAN . . . had on, and carried with him . . . striped blue and white tow-trowsers" as well as a sailor's jacket cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Light Blue and White 1/8" Stripe WLN 507100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd.
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1772 New York Journal, an ad included "Run away . . . two Irish servant women, the one . . . took with her a blue and white small striped linen gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Pale Blue and White 1/8" Stripe WLN 515100% Linen, 60" Wide, $12/yd.
The blue in extant samples of 18th and early 19th century blue and white linens very in color from very light shades to almost black. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1772 New York Journal, an ad included "Run away . . . a German servant girl . . . speaks Low Dutch and French . . . had on . . . blue and white striped jacket" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Light Blue and White 1/8" Stripe WLN 519100% Linen, 61" Wide, $12/yd.
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1772 New York Journal, an ad included "Run away . . . two Irish servant women, the one . . . took with her a blue and white small striped linen gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Indigo 1/8" Stripe WHP 107
Blue and white stripe was very common for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. It is repeatedly described in runaway descriptions and several original garments are made of very similar linen. This hemp linen is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gownsand jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, shirts, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . Had on, when she went away, a blue and white striped linen gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue all match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Blue and White 1/8" Check WLG 153100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd. Blue and white check linen was likely the most common check fabric produced during the 18th and into the early 19th century. It is repeatedly described in runaway ads and this fabric is nearly identical that of the apron illustrated in Fitting & Proper on pages 97 to 99. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1773 Newport Mercury, "Ran away . . . an indented Irish maid servant . . . and is supposed to have had on . . . a checked apron" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Black and Natural 1/8" Check WLN 518100% Linen, 57" Wide, $12/yd.
Black and white check linen is a good choice for working class men's shirts but it may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), or men's trousers. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1767 "an indentured servant man . . . by trade a bricklayer, born in Perth in Scotland . . . and, as he was some time in England, has not much of the Scotch accent. Had with him . . . several white and check linen shirts". Black 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing and black or natural 1" cotton twill tape matches this material. Matching tape is often used for binding gowns. |
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Black and White 1/2" Check WLN 517100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12/yd.
Black and white check linen is a good choice for working class men's shirts but it may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), or men's trousers. In the 1771 Pennsylvania Gazette, an ad included "Run away . . . the following servants, viz. Two servant men, Taylors by trade, one . . . a Scotchman . . . had on . . . one white and one check shirt" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white or black 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Mixed Stripe WLN 511100% Linen, 56" Wide, $11/yd.
Stripe linens were very common for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts were also often striped as were linings. In the 1779 New-Jersey Journal, "Ran away . . . an apprentice girl . . . had on and took away with her . . . three striped short gowns, one of linsey, the other two of tow and linen" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Tow and Linen Large Small Stripe WLG 209100% Linen, 55" Wide, $10/yd. Stripe linens were very common for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts were also often striped as were linings. In the 1778 Connecticut Courant, "Run away from the subscriber, a Negro woman . . . country born, had on when she went away a striped tow and linen gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and natural 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Blue and Natural 1/4" Check WLN 512100% Linen, 60" Wide, $12.00/yd.
Besides blue and white than brown and white the next most common multicolor linens tend to be a mix of blue brown and white like this linen. This fabric is good for a man's shirt and occasionally for women's gowns and petticoats. For example as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls "Run away . . . an Irish Servant Woman . . . Had on and took with her, when she went away, a check short gown" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Ledger of 1775. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Light Blue and White Stripe WLN 516
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1772 New York Journal, an ad included “Run away . . . in New York . . . an Irish servant girl . . . had on a broad blue and white striped homespun petticoat, and a smaller striped blue and white jacket” as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. White 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and bedgowns. |
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Light Brown Stripe WLN 328
Brown and white stripe was another very common linen for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. This linen has numerous uses for women in petticoats, gowns and jackets and for men in waistcoats, and shirts. Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing and linings too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Was stolen . . . an apprentice girl . . . She was stolen by her mother [who] . . . had on a small striped linen gown and petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural would compliment this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Brown Stripe WLN 329
Brown and white stripe was another very common linen for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. This linen has numerous uses for women in petticoats, gowns and jackets and for men in waistcoats, and shirts. Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing and linings too. For example in The Pennsylvania Packet in 1778 "Ran Away . . . a Scotch servant girl . . . Had on and took with her . . . an under brown and white petticoat" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural would compliment this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Light Brown and White 1/8" Check WLN 325100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd. Brown and white check was only slightly less common than blue and white. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Much less common are the occasional check shortgowns or petticoats. In the 1775 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . three Dutch servants . . . [one of them] had on, when she went away, a check linen short gown, with an apron to it" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing would work well for this material. |
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Light Brown and White 1/4" Check WLN 514100% Linen, 59" Wide, $12.00/yd.
Brown and white check was only slightly less common than blue and white. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Much less common are the occasional check shortgowns or petticoats. In the 1776 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . . the following servants, viz. Frederick Brick, a German, born in the country of Hesse . . . speaks good Hollandish and German . . . Had on and took with him . . . one white and three check shirts" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and 3/4" linen tape, will match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Black and White 1/4" Check WLM 200100% Linen, 57" Wide, $9.00/yd. Small black and white check linen was used throughout the 18th century to make men's shirts or and as a lining material. Much less commonly women's gowns and petticoats were made of check linens. The black stripes are 2 threads (just less than 1/8") wide and separated by 1/4" of white. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1732, during the trial of highway robbery the prisoner asked "Was I in the same Dress as I am in now?" and the constable replied "No, you was in a Sailor's Dress, with a Check Shirt.". White linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing would be a good choice. |
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Black 1/8" Check WLN 314100% Linen, 62" Wide, $12.00/yd. The warp of this linen has a 1/8" wide black stripe and the weft has a natural 1/8" wide stripe making this fabric a check. The natural stripe is so subtle that it is hardly noticeable. This linen is a good weight for men's shirts but could also be used for a lining. Stripe petticoats, gowns, and women's jackets were very common and since the natural stripe is hardly noticeable this linen would be a good choice. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . . living in Newtown township, Gloucester county, West New Jersey, opposite Philadelphia, three Dutch servants; two . . . man and wife . . . his wife . . . had on, when she went away, a check linen short gown, with an apron to it" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Off white linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and white, black or natural 1" cotton twill tape would all match this material. Matching tape is often used for binding petticoats and gowns. |
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Unbleached Off White Stripe WLN 122100% Linen, 3 to 4 oz., 56" Wide, $8.99/yd. The light stripe is 3/8" wide separated by unbleached linen of 2". Each stripe has 3 off white pin stripes set to one side of the unbleached stripe making this a subtle asymmetrical stripe. Stripes were very commonly used for women's gowns and petticoats and sometimes for men's jackets and waistcoats. In 1779 written in The Pennsylvania Gazette, "Was stolen last night from the subscriber living at the Unicorn tavern…16 miles from Philadelphia, the following articles, viz . . . two striped linen short gowns" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. When hand sewing this linen try 35/2 unbleached linen thread. |
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