The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Linen in Colors

100% linen
unless otherwise noted

Although linen was usually white or unbleached occasionally colors are found. Linen worn in the 18th century were usually shades of brown, blue, grey, and green. Linen was more difficult to dye than either wool or silk, both of which are available in a myriad of colors. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Below are some of the common 18th century colors we carry but many others revolve through our stock, please contact us for swatches, colors will vary with individual monitors. We have 50/3 linen thread in a variety of colors. If you ask we will do our best to match the thread to the color of the linen. Often times unbleached linen thread in 60/2 blends in well with most colors. Even on extant garments thread color did not match perfectly or unbleached was used.

Basics | Solid Colors | Checks and Stripes

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Green WLG 167

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $13.00/yd.

In The 1773 edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica it states that "green be the most frequent and most common of natural colors, yet there is no simple ingredient now used alone to dye green upon any material, sap green being the nearest, which is used by country people." However in 1772 a "Dr. William" petitioned the English house of commons claiming to have invented permanent yellow and green dyes for cotton and linen. Green linen thread 50/3 is an almost perfect match for hand sewing.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Light Olive Green WLN 310

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $12.00/yd.

This linen is a good weight for women's jackets, gowns and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats and coats. Unbleached 60/2 linen thread will work well when hand sewing this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Dyed Natural WLN 305

7.5 oz., 56" wide, $7.99/yd.

In the 18th century unbleached linen was refered to as brown linen and was the cheapest available. This linen is not unbleached but is dyed to about the same shade. Because it is dyed it may not fade as quickly as real unbleached which may be useful for those people who want the unbleached look. This linen is a good weight for linings, women's shifts, aprons, and petticoats and men's shirts, and light waistcoats. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "Run away . . .  two convict servant women . . .  [one] took with her . . .  brown linen aprons . . .  The other . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  check and brown linen aprons" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Beige 50/3 linen thread is a very close match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Light Coloured WLG 204

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $12.00/yd.

This fabric is a good weight for a light summer gown, petticoat or jacket. For example in The Pennsylvania Packet of 1778, "Ran Away, a Scotch servant Girl . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a striped linen short gown, a light coloured ditto". Ditto means the same as. This is cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Orange 50/3 linen thread would be the closest match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Light Yellowish Brown WLN 301

7.5 oz., 59" wide, $7.99/yd.

This shade of sandy tan may be obtained from a light bath in walnut or onion skins. For example in The Pennsylvania Journal of 1773, "RUN AWAY . . .  three Negro men . . .  The second . . .  Had on and took with him a yellowish brown close bodied coat". Linen thread 50/3 beige is the best match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Reddish Brown WLG 203

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $13.00/yd.

This is a bit of an unusual natural cinnamony brown with a hint of a pinky red color that would make a distinctive gown or waistcoat. For example in The Pennsylvania Mercury and Universal Advertiser of 1775, "Run away . . .  an English woman . . .  now a servant . . .  had on, . . .  [an] old patched reddish colour'd gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Light brown 50/3 linen thread is the best match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Reddish Brown WLN 402

59% linen, 41% cotton, 4.5 oz., 56" wide, $6.00/yd.

This 4.5 oz. blend will work well for a cool lining or for summer clothes. In The Pennsylvania Mercury and Universal Advertiser in 1775, "Run away . . .  A native Irish Servant Man . . .  it is thought that [he is] . . .  in company with . . .  an English woman . . .  now a servant . . .  had on . . .  [an] old patched reddish colour'd gown". Beige 80/3 linen thread will blend with the color of this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Brown WLN 407

4 oz., 57" wide, $7.00/yd.

Unbleached linen in the 18th century was usually referred to as brown although some may argue it is dyed. This 4 oz. linen will work well for a cool lining or for summer clothes. There are some dark spots in places and the salvedge edge in some places is very dark adding to its rustic appearance. In The Virginia Gazette in 1773, "a Cooper, born in Ireland carried with him, a brown Linen Coat, Jacket and Trousers". Beige 80/3 linen thread will blend with the color of this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Chocolate Brown WLG 135

7.5 oz., 60" wide, $13.00/yd.

Unbleached linen in the 18th century was usually referred to as brown although some may argue it is dyed. This 7 oz. linen has more body and is good for outer garments such as in The Virginia Gazette in 1773, "a Cooper, born in Ireland carried with him, a brown Linen Coat, Jacket and Trousers". Beige 50/3 linen thread will blend with the color of this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Cinnamon Brown WLG 136

7.5 oz., 60" wide, $13.00/yd.

Brown linen probably referred to the unbleached color of linen however some argue it is dyed. In The Virginia Gazette in 1774, "RUN away . . .  two servant men, both born in England; one of them . . .  had on, and took with him, a brown shirt, [and] brown linen browsers". Beige 50/3 linen thread would be a suitable match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Rich Cinnamon Brown WLN 320

7.5 oz., 56" wide, $9.00/yd.

Most cinnamon colored coats were likely made of wool but some argue they may be of linen. For example in The Virginia Gazette of 1752, "RUN away . . .  a Servant man . . .  by Trade a Caulker; had on a Cinnamon coloured Coat, a brown Linen Jacket and Trousers with Peices set on the Seams between the Thighs." Light brown 50/3 linen thread is the best match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Mustard WLG 131

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $12.00/yd.

Osage orange (for early 19th century reenactors), golden rod, chicory and several other plants will make an earthy yellow very similar to this linen. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant woman . . .  had on . . .  a yellow under petticoat, with red binding" is cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Light brown or beige 50/3 linen thread would blend with the color of this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Grayish Blue WLN 405

4 oz., 57" wide, $7.00/yd.

Although not very common, aprons and c. 1750s shirts are occasionally described as blue. For example in a 1694 criminal trial recorded in The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London "Ann Wilson, alias Mayheu, was tried for stealing a Blue Linen Pocket Apron, value 2 d. and 15 s. in money". Pale blue 80/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Light Blue WLN 408

4 oz., 56" wide, $7.00/yd.

There are several small spots near the salvedge edge where the dye did not take well to this fabric. Although not very common, aprons and c. 1750s shirts are occasionally described as blue. For example in The Virginia Gazette, of 1751 "RAN away . . .  an Irish Convict Servant Man . . .  He carried with him two blue linen Shirts". Pale blue 80/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

Add Light Blue Linen WLN 408 to Cart

Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Medium Blue WLG 169

6.5 oz., 59" wide, $13.00/yd.

Although not very common, aprons are occasionally described as blue. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London, in 1780 "ELISABETH HUMPHREYS was indicted for stealing a blue linen apron, value 1 s." Pale blue 50/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Medium Blue WLN 400

53% linen, 47% cotton, 4.5 oz., 59" wide, $6.00/yd.

Although not very common, aprons and c. 1750s shirts are occasionally described as blue. For example in The Virginia Gazette, of 1751 "RAN away . . .  an Irish Convict Servant Man . . .  He carried with him two blue linen Shirts". Pale blue 80/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

Add Medium Blue Linen Blend WLN 400 to Cart

Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Blue WLG 208

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $12.00/yd.

Although not very common, aprons and c. 1750s shirts are occasionally described as blue. For example in London's The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, of 1791 "JONATHAN STUBBS was indicted for stealing . . .  thirty-three yards and three quarters of blue linen, value 1 l. 18 s." Pale blue 80/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Teal WLG 134

6.5 oz., 60" wide, $12.00/yd.

Some linens were described as "copperas coloured". Copperas was used as both a dye and a mordant and there is considerable confusion as to what color copperas was. Nonetheless, this is one of the many possible shades of copperas. In 1796 "RUNAWAY . . .  an indented Apprentice . . .  He wore away a Copperas coloured Linen Jacket and Trowsers" was advertised in Rhode Island. Pale blue 50/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Dark Blue WLN 401

59% linen, 41% cotton, 4.5 oz., 54" wide, $6.00/yd.

Although not very common, aprons and c. 1750s shirts are occasionally described as blue. For example in The Virginia Gazette, of 1751 "RAN away . . .  an Irish Convict Servant Man . . .  He carried with him two blue linen Shirts". Pale blue 80/3 linen thread is the closest match to this linen.

Add Dark Blue Linen Blend WLN 401 to Cart

Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Dark Blue WLG 166

7.5 oz., 60" wide, $13/yd.

In the Old Bailey criminal trials, London in 1779 "MARY JAMES and MARY COLD were indicted for breaking and entering the dwelling-house of Robert Tallworthy . . .  and stealing . . .  a blue linen apron, value 6 d." Navy blue 35/2 linen thread will work well when hand sewing this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century reenactors and museum interpreters.
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Slate WLG 207

7.5 oz., 60" wide, $13.00/yd.

Many organic dyers find that although linen can be dyed it quickly fades to a shade of grey. This fabric being a bit heavier is good for men's trousers, coats or jackets and women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Gray 50/3 linen thread is a good match to this linen.

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Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Gray WLN 406

4 oz., 56" wide, $7.00/yd.

Many organic dyers find that although linen can be dyed it quickly fades to a shade of grey. This fabric being light weight is good for linings and for light summer men's waistcoats and women's petticoats, and gowns. Gray 80/3 linen thread is a good match to this linen.

Add Gray Linen WLN 406 to Cart

Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.
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Light Gray WLN 403

59% linen, 41%cotton, 4.5 oz., 56" wide, $6.00/yd.

Many organic dyers find that although linen can be dyed it quickly fades to a shade of grey. This fabric being light weight is good for linings and for light summer men's waistcoats and women's petticoats, and gowns. Gray 80/3 linen thread is a good match to this linen.

Add Light Gray Linen WLN 403 to Cart

Linen fabric swatch for 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th century re-enactors and museum interpreters.

Basics | Solid Colors | Checks and Stripes

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