Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
1750-1800

English Style Shift (Chemise) A full size pattern of this undermost garment, with stitching instructions, including whip gathered ruffle. This pattern is a composite of similar characteristics found in three original shifts now in museum collections, plus additional documentation. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772 "Run away . . .  an indented servant woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  3 coarse shifts, one of which is a homespun, with a pair of fine sleeves, one ozenbrigs ditto, and one coarse tow ditto, with broken ruffles on the same".

Sizes per pattern, S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL.

$12.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift
1790-1820

A full size pattern of this undermost garment, useful for Empire and Federal style gowns, with a drawstring neckline to help adjust shift to gown neckline, and short sleeves to go with the fashion of the period. Based on original cutting directions, with construction techniques from several extant garments.

Includes sizes S-M-L-XL-2XL-3XL.

$12.00

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JP Ryan Basic Wardrobe

Contains pattern diagram for shift in all sizes, plus illustrated directions for petticoat, apron and neck handkerchief. Patterns included for short gown and pocket. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1783 "Ran away . . .  an Irish servant Girl . . .  Had on and took with her, a green skirt, dark calicoe short gown, white stockings, leather shoes with low heels, two striped lincey petticoats, a striped red calicoe short gown".

One size short gown per pattern, bust sizes 32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44,46, 48-50.

$18.00

Basic Six Piece Wardrobe

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La Fleur de Lyse Canadienne de la Nouvelle-France circa 1740-1760

A full pattern for the mantelet (known as a bedgown in English) is included here with two sleeve versions. This shift pattern has a gathered sleeve more common for the 1740-1760 opposed to the fitted sleeve which was becoming popular in the 1770s. Also included are instructions for the petticoat, neck handkerchief and apron with two bib styles.

$21.95

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Country Wives
Workwoman's Outdoor Bonnet c. 1789 - 1818

These bonnets were commonly worn by Western European (British, French) and North Amarican women of labouring to middling classes. These were often worn by older women and usually over a day cap. This pattern includes suggestions for fabrics, documentation, and options in the construction. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London of 1812 during the trial it was recorded, "though she had a large bonnet on at the time".

$15.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Cap and Bonnet

Based on original 18th century directions, this pattern is appropriate for 1775 to 1800 although similar cap and bonnets were used earlier. In some cases bonnets outnumber hats such as in New Jersey runaway descriptions. One from 1776 includes a servant woman who left with "a black silk bonnet."

$10.00

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Kannik's Korner
Women's/Men's Stockings, Women's Pockets, and Mitts

A full scale, multi-size, pattern for constructed stockings for men or women, with instructions for custom fitting. Can be made of knitted cloth, or of linen cut on the bias (good for 17th, 18th, early 19th century). Five pocket styles, including three mid-18th century (English, Scotch, & Italian), and two second half 18th century from America. Also includes a pattern for women's common linen mitts, cut on the bias (one size). In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1779 "Ran away . . .  a servant woman . . .  She stole and carried off . . .  one pair of white cotton mitts".

Includes stocking sizes S-M-L-XL-2X-3X Pattern

$10.00

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La Fleur de Lyse
Caps and Coif
Mid 18th Century

Patterns for three styles of caps plus a long lappets cap and coif are included here. In addition a pattern to make a pocket is also included. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772 "Run away . . .  an indented servant woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a clean cap, with a black sattin ribbon, tied round her head, and brought under her chin".

$21.95

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Kannik's Korner Woman's and Girl's Caps

This pattern includes many styles of everyday headgear used from 1740-1820. Often women try several styles before settling with one that works well for them. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1770 "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  wears sometimes ribbons, and sometimes caps . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  two caps for a child, and linen to make more".

$12.00

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Country Wives
Caps for the Upper Crust 1790 to 1820

These cap patterns were all created by studying art work of wealthy women in the United States and United Kingdom as well as extant caps from many museums. These caps are more complicated to construct, use several styles and widths of lace, and are more time consuming than many other cap patterns. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "FRANCES MOLTON CRANMER was indicted for burglariously breaking and entering . . .  stealing therein . . .  two double lace caps, value 15s. a dress lace cap, value 10s.".

$15.00

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18th Century Wired Cap

Worn mostly by the middling to gentry classes but is seen in portraits on 'my lady's maids'. This cap was worn as early as 1745 but is most commonly seen from the late 1760s to early 1770s. Required milliner wire is included in the pattern. In The Providence Gazette of 1763 "RAN away . . .  a likely lusty Mulatto Servant Woman . . .  She is extremely nice in her Head Attire, which is generally ornamented after the modern Fashion".

$8.00

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JP Ryan Caps

A simple cap to cover the head, which can be worn with the ears turned toward or away from the face, as desired. An undress cap to be constructed in mid-weight white linen. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant girl . . .  had on, when she went away, a round ear'd cap".

$7.00

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Woman's Caps 1720 to 1800

Women often try several caps before they find one that compliments their face and they feel comfortable wearing. This pattern provides four different styles that may be further adorned with ribbons to provide individual touches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773 "Run Away . . .  a Dutch servant woman . . .  had on an English cap, with a coarse lawn border".

$9.00

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Country Wives

A Variety of Lappet Caps mid 18th to early 19th Centuries

Country Wives lappet caps were commonly worn by the French in both Europe and North America and were often worn by country women, farmers, maids, and genteel ladies. This pattern includes suggestions for fabrics, documentation, and options in the construction. In The Proceedings of the Old Bailey in London of 1781 the trial recorded, "The prisoner, Elizabeth Tenant, gave me a piece of lace lappet for a cap, and a cap caul".

$15.00

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Country Wives
Caps for the Working Poor Mid 18th to Mid 19th Century

All of these patterns are based on originals in museum collections made of sturdy linen. They may be made for wealthier impressions by making them of finer fabrics. The full pattern, directions, and documentation come in this pattern. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "RUN away from Forceput two convict servant women . . .  she took with her . . .  linen and muslin caps".

$15.00

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Country Wives
British Regency Caps 1780 to 1820

View A, B, & D are seen very frequently from the late 18th to early 19th century by laboring to middling sort women. View E is a cap worn by working class women shown in many of Pyne's British sketches. View C is an unusual example of a naive American young woman of about 1810. These styles of caps often were adorned with silk ribbons in bright pastel colors in widths from medium to quiet wide.

$15.00

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Country Wives
Beribboned Caps 1780 to 1810

This includes a selection of the overly large caps popular at the end of the 18th century. These caps are decorated with extravagant silk ribbons and includes instructions how to make a variety of ribbon rosettes. In the Proceedings of the Old Bailey, London, in 1791 "the prisoner robbed me of all my clothes . . .  she had my cap and ribbon on".

$15.00

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Stays by JP Ryan

Strapless stays are designed for comfort and give a cylindrical shape to the torso while allowing full freedom of movement of the arms and shoulders. The fully illustrated directions are included for any necessary alterations required to fit your figure. These stays are appropriate for late 18th century wear and incorporates features from extant 18th century stays in the National Museum of American History and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. In The Virginia Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . .  a Welsh woman . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  an old pair of green coloured stays".

Comes in sizes 6 through 24 for bust sizes 32-50.

$15.00

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Mill Farm 18th Century Jumps or Leather Stays

Jumps include options for a front and or back laced, lightly boned undergarment that is perfect for work, undress, or a first pair of stays. Leather stays were worn by poor women. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1776 "Ran away . . .  an English servant girl . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a pair of leather stays".

Comes in sizes 8–18.

$8.00

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#030: A Pair of Transition Stays - Pattern Fashionable Circa 1796-1806

This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Danvers' Historical Society in Danvers, Massachusetts. The threads appear to be hand spun and the fabric appears to be hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The thread count is approximately 40 warp and 36 weft. The pieces are sewn together with linen thread, perhaps the thread used to weave the fabric. The stiffening is whalebone. While the front is fully-boned the back and sides are partially boned. Variations of the front boning from Conner Prairie Museum in Fishers, Indiana and The Chester County Historical Society in West Chester, Pennsylvania are included with the pattern.

Detailed Historical Notes explaining and documenting what is unique about a pair of transition stays are included in the pattern package.

The pattern comes in sizes 8-14, 16-20, and 22-26 all with cup sizes B, C, and D. The following sizes are layout out on 45" wide fabric. Sizes 8 through 14 require 1/2 yd. fashion fabric and 2/3 yd. lining, sizes 16 through 20 require 3/4 yd. fashion fabric and 7/8 yd. lining and sizes 22 through 26 require 7/8 yd. of fashion fabric and 1 yd. of lining.

$9.00

Metal Bands:

Past Patterns sells the set of metal bands that are inserted in the horizontal breast-bone casings that make a transition stays unique.

$3.00 a pair.

The stay is worn with Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown (below).

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Woman's Gown A Robe Polonaise ca. 1770 to 1785

This pattern may be used to make a simple day gown with the option to wear it 'a la polonaise' or tucked up at the hips. Included are directions for the petticoat and hip pads. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1771, "Run away . . .  living in Philadelphia . . .  a Welsh servant girl . . .  she had on, and took with her, when she went away, two calicoe gowns, one dark, the other a purple in diamonds, much worn".

$12.00

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Fig Leaf Patterns
Open Robe ca. 1771

This pattern includes a full packet of information with well documented directions for both open and closed robe gown with petticoat. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on when she went away, a long old green worsted gown".

8-18 (pattern fits 32" - 42" bust)
18R-28R (pattern fits 41" - 51" bust)

$25.00

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Fig Leaf Patterns
Work Dress ca. 1795

Empire gown of the transitional style with a higher waistline. The bodice front neckline is low and curved. The bodice also ends high under the bust and has three darts on each side for shaping and extends around the body as in the earlier" en fourreau" style. The shoulder strap is constructed in the same manner as earlier styles and has two sets of patches. The sleeves are two-piece construction with a narrow hem. In The Providence Gazette of 1796, "Ran away . . .  a Negro WOMAN . . .  She stole and carried off . . .  a light Calicoe new Gown, a striped Tow and Linen Gown".

8-18 (pattern fits 32" - 42" bust)
18R-28R (pattern fits 41" - 51" bust)

$25.00

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JP Ryan
Pet-en-l'air

The pet-en-l'air has a fitted torso without front waist seam, and a pleated sack back that extends from neckline to hem. Designed to be worn over stays, the Pet-en-l'air was popular from the 1750s to the 1770s.

Available in sizes 6-8 through 22-24.

$20.00

Pet-en-l'air (Robe à la Française)

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JP Ryan
Robe à l'Anglaise
or English Nightgown

1750-1780 May be constructed in a variety of ways. The two views shown offer a Robe à l'Anglaise en foureau as round gown with an apron front or as a Robe à l'Anglaise à La Polonnaise as an open robe with petticoat. Either view may be made as an open or closed robe. The most versatile gown of the 18th century! In The Virginia Gazette of 1774, "Run away . . .  two convict servant women . . .  [one of them] has on a new pompadour gown . . .  she took with her an old green gown".

Available in sizes 8-22, one size per pattern.

$18.00

Robe à l'Anglaise

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JP Ryan
Ca. 1770-1785
Caraco

Long jacket which may be worn down or up à la Polonaise, with optional ruching strip to be attached across center front to hold handkerchief in place. Available in sizes 6 through 20, two sizes per pattern. Includes sleeve ruffles and petticoat. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant maid . . .  took with her . . .  a small red striped long gown, with black spots between the stripes, mended under the arms with another sort of calico".

Sizes 32-24, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46

$18.00

Caraco

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Mill Farm
Woman's Riding Habit Jacket and Waistcoat Pattern

This c. 1740-1780 riding habit was first used for active sport but increasingly became fashionable for traveling and informal outdoor leisurewear. This pattern includes a complete pattern for the jacket and waistcoat with instructions for the petticoat. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . .  two Irish servant women, . . .  had on, and took with them, one camblet riding habit, faced with blue peelong".

Sizes 8-10, 12-14, 16-18

$15.00

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Fig Leaf Patterns
Lady's Jacket c. 1770-85

This practical garment is based on an original that may have been a man's waistcoat in the 1730s and remade into a woman's jacket in the 1770s with reenforcments added in the 1780s. This is an interesting full size pattern with complete directions and a description of the original. In The Virginia Gazette of 1771, "Run away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  had on when she went away a black Yarn Serge Jacket".

Sizes 8-18, 18R-28R

$18.00

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JP Ryan
A Fine Collection of
18th Century Jackets
for undress wear

This very special pattern contains 10 pattern pieces which may be combined to create an entire wardrobe of 18th century jackets. Four views are given, each for a different time period. Because all the pattern pieces, i.e. sleeves, cuffs, backs and front, fit together, you may create additional styles, based on your research. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1770, "Run away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her, a linsey jacket, patched under the arms, with patches of a different colour".

Sizes 6-8, 10-12, 14-16, 18-20, 22-24

$18.00

18th Century Jackets

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Past Patterns Ca 1796-1806
Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown

This pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. The threads are hand spun and the fabric is hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The background is white, interrupted every 7/8 inch by alternate threads of madder red and indigo blue. Unlike today's fabric, the stripes are at a right angle to the salvage. Pictured at left is the dress fabric.

Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included; however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.

The bodice is conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment.

The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat in the front. A 1-1/2 inch crescent-shaped tuck at center front raises the skirt over the toes.

Sizes 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through 14 require 4-1/2 yds.; sizes 16 through 20 require 5 yds. and sizes 22 through 26 require 5-1/2 yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
Multi-sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups.

$25.00

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Kannik's Korner Women's Bed gown
1730-1770

Bed gowns were worn by working women and do not require stays for a good fit. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Ran Away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on . . .  a blue and white calico bed gown with long sleeves, considerably broke".

Includes sizes XS to XXXL.

$16.00

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Mill Farm European Bedgown
1730-1770

Bedgowns were worn by working women and do not require stays for a good fit. This pattern has an optional lining, several cuff types, and ties may be added to close the front. Complete directions for making a petticoat are also included. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  two Irish servants . . .  the woman . . .  had on . . .  a bedgown, striped blue, red, green and white".

Although this pattern is less expensive than the Kanniks Korner bed gown the directions are not as clear and there are no illustrations to follow. This pattern does not explain the documentaion whereas the Kanniks pattern provides full citations.

Sizes 8-10 and 12-18.

$10.00

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Kannik's Korner Woman's Short Cloak

Short cloaks were commonly worn by women of all classes during the second half of the 18th century. Being very convenient for working women short cloaks stay closed while working whereas full length cloaks get in the way. This pattern may be easily lengthened which will require additional fabric and tape. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1773, "RAN away . . .  an indented Irish maid servant . . .  is supposed to have had on a red short cloak".

Includes all sizes S to XXL.

$12.00

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Mill Farm Long or Short Cloak Pattern

Diagram and instructions for making a long or short cloak 1750 to 1810 with either a large or small hood. In The Rhode Island Newport Mercury of 1774, "RAN away . . .  an apprentice GIRL . . .  had on . . .  a long brown cloak".

$3.00

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