The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Worsted Wool Fabric

In the 18th century there were many types of worsted wool fabric mostly produced in Norwich, England and because of this they were often refered to as Norwich goods or Norwich stuff. Stuff is a generic term for many types of worsted wools. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth. One Norwich good called duory was specifically made for men's clothing and sometimes used for summer suits. Being lightweight worsteds are made of long opposed to short staple fibers, are strong wearing, but poor insulators. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Bag Hose Fabric | Broadcloth | Worsted Fabric | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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Green Stuff, 100% Wool, 59" Wide, $17/yd.
WWN 148

This plain weave Norwich good is very fine, soft and strong. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In New York's The Royal Gazette of 1780, "Run away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  had on when she went away a green stuff petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Although it is a bit lighter and with more olive tones green 80/3 linen thread is the best match for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 62" Wide, $18/yd.
WWV 542

This is a fine light weight durable plain weave that would work well for a women's summer gown, jacket, riding habit or petticoat, or a men's jacket, waistcoat, coat or breeche. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1772, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on when she went away, a long old green worsted gown" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Because of a slight blue tint to this green worsted none of our threads match. Please keep in mind than many extant garments are sewn with thread that does not match. Unbleached linen thread is often seen as the general sewing thread.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Green Worsted, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $21/yd.
WWN 180

This plain weave Norwich good is very fine, soft and strong. It has a heathery look with tones of earthy gray mixed in with the light olive green. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In New York's The Royal Gazette of 1780, "Run away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  had on when she went away a green stuff petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Since none of our green threads really match, either gray 80/3 linen thread or unbleached 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing will blend well.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Irish Stuff, 52% Wool/48% Silk, 59" Wide, $20/yd.
WWN 137

Irish stuff was produced both in Norwich and Spitalfields specifically for women's dresses and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Boston Evening Post an ad in 1774 included "Run away . . .  a Maid Servant . . .  carried with her a long dark Gown of cross-barr’d Stuff" cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Green 80/3 linen thread is a bit darker but may blend for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool and silk fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Brown Cross Barred Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 263

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. This blend has a dark chocolate brown ground with cross bars of light grey and navy blue make a camblettee representative of those from the 18th century. This fine fabric is manufactured in England and is a steal at the price we're selling it for! In the 18th century this would have been a product of Norwich and was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Boston Evening-Post an ad in 1775 advertised "Gilbert Deblois Informs his Customers, that he has for Sale . . .  A fine Assortment of Womens new fashioned Stuffs, Choice Cambleteens at 9d. Sterling per Yard. All Colours and Prices of Camblets for Riding-Hoods" cited in personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Unbleached 60/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Brown Check Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 264

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. This camblettee has a light natural brown ground with intersecting lines of medium brown and light brown. It is manufactured in England and is a steal at the price we're selling it for! In the 18th century this would have been a product of Norwich and was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in London's The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, of 1759 a witness observed "She had a very good brown camblet gown on" Unbleached 60/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Cross Barred Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 266

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. Medium blue ground crossed with bars of black and light blue results in an elegant look for an 18th century gown. It is manufactured in England and is a steal at the price we're selling it for! In the 18th century this would have been a product of Norwich and was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Providence Gazette an ad in 1775 advertised "to be sold by James Green, at his little shop . . .  a small but neat assortment of English goods, such as calimancoes, plain and cross-barred camblettees" cited in personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Unbleached 60/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Gray Cross Barred Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 265

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. A light natural brown ground with two cross bars of indigo blue describes this cambletee. It is an excellent fabric manufactured in England and is at an incredible price. In the 18th century this would be a product of Norwich this was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Providence Gazette an ad in 1775 advertised "to be sold by James Green, at his little shop . . .  a small but neat assortment of English goods, such as calimancoes, plain and cross-barred camblettees" cited in personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 35/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Brown Cross Barred Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 261

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. Woven into the salvage is "LUXURY LINEN WOOL MERCHANDIZED EXCLUSIVELY BY HUDDERSFIELD FINE WORSTEDS" manufactured in England this is a steal at the price we're selling it for. In the 18th century this would be a product of Norwich this was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette an ad in 1775 included "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her, when she went away, a dark cross barred camblettee gown" cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Unbleached 60/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

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Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Coloured Cross Barred Camblettee, 58% Wool/42% Linen, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 262

new New!

Usually camblet or camblettee was a worsted silk blend but some were worsted linen blends like this one. A very light colored natural brown ground with off white and grey cross bars describes this camblettee. Woven into the salvage is "LUXURY LINEN WOOL MERCHANDIZED EXCLUSIVELY BY HUDDERSFIELD FINE WORSTEDS" manufactured in England this is a steal at the price we're selling it for. In the 18th century this would be a product of Norwich and was often used for women's gowns and petticoats but could possibly be used for women's jackets. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette an ad in 1775 included "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her, when she went away, a dark cross barred camblettee gown" cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Unbleached 60/2 linen thread would work well for hand sewing this fabric.

Add Cross Barred Camblettee WWV 262 to Cart

Worsted wool and Linen fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Brown Camblet, 52% Wool/48% Silk, 59" Wide, $24.99/yd.
WWN 189

new A shimmering gold!

Camblet was often woven with silk to improve the drape and softness making it a durable fabric often used throughout the 18th century for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In the early 19th century this worsted could be used for a gowns, spencers and pelisse. In The Pennsylvania Evening Post of 1776, "Ran away . . .  an indented servant girl . . .  something of an Indian look . . .  She had on . . .  a brown camblet petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Light brown 80/3 linen thread is a good match as is cinnamon brown silk buttonhole twist.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Brown Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $20.99/yd.
WWN 190

new A wonderful drape!

Worsted that is durable, fine and soft makes a wonderful summer gown with a splendid wrinkle free drape. A very good weight for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In the early 19th century this worsted could be used for a gowns, spencers and pelisse. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773, "Ran away . . .  a mulatto wench . . .  had on and took with her, and India callico gown, and one ditto of brown worsted". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Light brown 35/2 linen thread is a pretty good match as is cinnamon brown silk buttonhole twist.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Brown Camblet, 52% Wool/48% Silk, 58" Wide, $24.99/yd.
WWN 191

new Limited supply!

Camblet was a fine worsted often blended with silk to enhance the shine and drape and increase softness. Camblet makes a wonderful summer gown with a splendid wrinkle free drape. A very good weight for women's jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In the early 19th century this worsted could be used for a gowns, spencers and pelisse. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Ran away . . .  a servant girl . . .  She stole and carried off . . .  a broad stomacher, a brown camblet long gown". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Light brown 35/2 linen thread is a pretty good match as is cinnamon brown silk buttonhole twist.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Herringbone Camblet, 52% Wool/48% Silk, 60" Wide, $16.00/yd.
WWN 192

new Limited supply!

This camblet has a subtle herringbone all of one shade of brown. Although herringbone is a simple variation of twill, it is questionable if herringbone was used in the 18th century. This camblet may, therefore, be better used for early 19th century garments, but at this price you can't go wrong. Camblet was often woven with silk to improve the drape and softness making it a durable fabric often used throughout the 18th century for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In the early 19th century this worsted could be used for a gowns, spencers and pelisse. In The Pennsylvania Evening Post of 1776, "Ran away . . .  an indented servant girl . . .  something of an Indian look . . .  She had on . . .  a brown camblet petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. brown 35/2 linen thread is a good match as is brown silk buttonhole twist.

Add Brown Herringbone Camblet WWN 192 to Cart

Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Red Worsted, 100% Wool, 57" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 259

new New!

This plain weave Norwich good will work well for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . .  had on . . .  two red petticoats, one of which is fine serge" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Scarlet 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing.

Add Red Worsted WWV 259 to Cart

Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Indgo Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 544

This twill Norwich good is very fine and durable. A very good weight for women's riding habits, gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . .  had on . . .  a blue worsted skirt". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Try black 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $25/yd.
WWV 541

Remnant!

This plain weave Norwich good is very fine, soft and strong. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. For example advertised in The Virginia Gazette of 1752, "RAN away . . .  a Convict Servant . . .  had been in the Army for several Years, with the Camp in Flanders, and at the Battle of Culloden, where she lost her Husband; she had on when she went away . . .  an old dirty blue Stuff Gown, with check Linen Cuffs". Try navy blue 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing. For hand sewing buttonholes try navy blue silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

Add Blue Stuff WWV 541 to Cart

Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Light Blue Stuff, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $19/yd.
WWB 847

This is a fine light weight twill that is very durable. Stuff is a very summer weight wool good for women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats, and men's jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775, "Run away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, when she went off, a light blue stuff gown." As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Light blue linen thread is a close match to this fabric for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Wool Flannel

Flannel was in common use by the second half of the 17th century and was made of a plain or (arguably) twill weave wool. Flannel continued to be made purely of wool into the 19th century when, like so many other fabrics, cotton flannel began to replace it. Wool flannel was used as an insulating layer usually worn close to the skin for garments like women's shifts (probably of white flannel), gowns and under petticoats and for men's shirts, drawers, under jackets, and waistcoats and for lining outer garments. Sometimes flannels were used to make outer garments like gowns and breeches. In London in 1761, Richard Rolt, published his book A New Dictionary of Trade and Commerce. In this book Rolt stated "some use it [wool flannel] for waistcoats, drawers, shirts, and shifts, and women most commonly for under petticoats."

Flannel is related to baize and plains. Baize and plains are cheaper than flannel and usually not as soft. These flannels may therefore be used in place of baize or plains. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

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Scarlet Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $17.00/yd.
WWL 304

Scarlet red wool flannel was died with the shell of a beetle and therefore more expensive than the duller reds obtained from the madder root. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel jackets for men and petticoats for women were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . .  a mulatto wench . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a red flannel quilted petticoat". As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Scarlet red linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a twill. For sewing button holes try scarlet silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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White Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWL 305

White wool flannel was the most common color of flannel during the 18th and early 19th centuries. White flannel was especially used to make shirts, shifts and petticoats in the 18th century. For example, in February, 1774, "an Indian girl" was advertised in Rhode Island and the ad continued, "had on when she went away a flannel shift" as advertised in Rhode Island. Off white 60/2 or 35/2 linen thread and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matche this fabric well. Matching tape is often seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave and not a snow white but more of a natural creamy white. For sewing button holes try white silk button hole twist.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Brown Flannel, 100% Wool, 57" Wide, $20/yd.
WWV 543

This brown twill flannel is woven with brown yarn with a few black yarns giving it an overall dark natural mixed sheep's black color. Brown wool flannel was used as a lining and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats during the 17th and 18th centuries. For men it was typically used for drawers, underjackets, and waistcoats. For example in The New-London Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . .  an Apprentice Boy . . .  had on a . . .  homespun flannel Vest" cited in personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Black 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

Add Dark Brown Flannel WWV 543 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Black Check Flannel, 100% Wool, 58" Wide, $20/yd.
WWN 187

new Think warm and cozy!

Check flannels were used for men's shirts and as a lining material throughout the 18th century but is very difficult to find today. This flannel is very dark being of a black check on a dark gray ground. In the 1773 Providene Gazette, "RUN away . . .  an Apprentice Boy . . .  had on . . .  a check Flannel Shirt" cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Black 35/2 linen thread or unbleached 35/2 linen thread will both work well for hand sewing this fabric.

Add Black Check Flannel WWN 187 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Dark Brown Flannel, 100% Wool, 58" Wide, $20/yd.
WWN 188

new A new warm woolen flannel!

Brown wool flannel was used as a lining and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats during the 17th and 18th centuries. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1776, "Run away . . .  an indented servant girl . . .  a Scotch woman . . .  had on, and took with her, a short jacket and petticoat, of brown flannel" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. Unbleahced or black 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. For sewing button holes try dark brown or black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

Add Dark Brown Flannel WWN 188 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Navy Blue Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $20/yd.
WWB 801

A soft twill wool commonly used next to the skin, as in women's under-petticoats, aprons, and gowns. For men it was typically used for drawers, underjackets, and waistcoats. This fabric works well for a lining. Navy blue linen thread 35/2 for hand sewing and blue worsted wool tape matches this fabric well. Matching tape is sometimes seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. For sewing button holes try navy blue silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

Add Navy Blue Flannel WWB 801 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Black Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $19/yd.
WWT 310 Not pictured

As cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls "Run Away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a black and white linsey petticoat, black quilt[ed petticoat], a flannel ditto [petticoat]" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette in 1773. Black 50/3 linen thread or 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 1/2", 5/8, and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Bay

Bay was used from the 17th century up to the early 19th century when it was being replaced by cotton fabrics. Bay was a coarse, open, plain weave wool made of worsted warp and woolen weft threads. Bay was mostly used as a lining for British and German soldiers' uniforms up to 1802 and habits of monks and nuns. Bay was also used by some specialized craftsmen to use behind looking glasses to preserve the tin and as a lining in cases for example. Much of the information on bay is gathered from Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips our bay is museum quality reproduction bay woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, weave, milling, and finish as bay made in the late 18th century.

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Natural White Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $42.00/yd.
WWK 200

This fabric is currently out of stock. It may be a while before we get more.

Natural white bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have white turnbacks. Off white 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Bag Hose Fabric | Broadcloth | Worsted Fabric | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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