The sign of the unicorn. A fabric shop for 18th century reenactors and historians.

Worsted Wool

In the 18th century there were many types of worsted wools mostly produced in Norwich, England and because of this they were often refered to as Norwich goods. Worsted wools are a good wool summer cloth. Being lightweight worsteds are made of long opposed to short staple fibers, are strong wearing, but poor insulators. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Bag Hose | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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Natural White Serge, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $36/yd.
WWK 105

Serge is a light weight twill with a worsted warp and a woolen filling that was usually used as a lining material. Serge was used to line the body and skirts of British Foot Guards, horse units, and NCO's during the American Revolution. It was also used by the French and Continental Armies. In 1802 serge replaced bay as the lining for British standing army regiments of foot. Serge was sometimes used to make outside garments for civilian use primarily women's petticoats but sometimes men's jackets, coats and breeches. In 1764 The Providence Gazette published, "Run away . . .  a Negro Man . . .  had on . . .  a Jacket of light-colour'd Serge, and a Pair of Breeches of the same" cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing matches this fabric.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips this serge is museum quality woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, drape, weave, milling, and finish as serge linings found in extant 18th century British regimentals.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Green Camblet, Wool Silk Blend, 60" Wide, $22/yd.
WWN 104

new Luxurious!

Luxuriously soft camblet was mostly made of a combination of fine plain weave worsted threads and silk. This combination makes a very soft and lightweight but durable fabric that was used throughout the 18th century to make women's gowns, jackets, petticoats and sometimes cloaks. Men sometimes had jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches made of camblet. Camblet was also used to make bed curtains and in the late 17th and early 18th century camblet was often used to make riding hoods. In The New York Gazette of 1774 "Run away . . .  two Dutch bound servants . . .  The woman . . .  talks or knows very little English; had on and took with her . . .  a green camblet gown" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. For hand sewing green 50/3 linen thread is the closest match.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Twill Lambs Wool, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $20/yd.
WWN 105

new Beautiful!

Incredibly soft lambs wool is not cited as a fabric during the 18th century. But it is identical to worsted which was used throughout the 18th century to make women's gowns, jackets, and petticoats. Men sometimes had jackets, waistcoats, coats and breeches made of worsted. In The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1775 "Run away . . .  a servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a brown worsted quilt[ed petticoat]" as cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. For hand sewing brown 50/3, brown 35/2 linen thread, and brown silk button hole twist and quilter's thread all match this fairly well.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Worsted, 100% Wool, 59" Wide, $19/yd.
WWN 107

new New!

This twill Norwich good is fine and durable. A very good weight for women's gowns, and petticoats, either men's or women's jackets, and men's waistcoats, coats and breeches. In The New York Journal of 1774, "absented from her master, a Scotch indented servant girl . . .  had on . . .  a blue worsted skirt". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Try black 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing.

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Worsted wool fabric swatch for 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Wool Flannel

Flannel in the 18th century was made of a plain or (arguably) twill weave wool. Wool flannel was used as an insulating layer usually worn close to the skin for garments like women's shifts, gowns and under petticoats and for men's shirts, drawers, under jackets, and waistcoats and for lining outer garments like coats and jackets. Sometimes flannels were used to make outer garments like gowns and breeches. Please ask us for availability of other colors you might be interested in. In London in 1761, Richard Rolt, published his book A New Dictionary of Trade and Commerce. In this book Rolt stated "some use it [wool flannel] for waistcoats, drawers, shirts, and shifts, and women most commonly for under petticoats."

Flannel is related to baize and plains. Baize and plains are cheaper than flannel and tended to be not as soft as flannel. These flannels may therefore be used in place of baize of plains. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from Swatches: A Guide to Choosing 21st Century Fabrics for 18th Century Clothing which has swatches you can feel and for a wider view of fabrics imported to the Americas try Textiles in America 1650-1870.
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Sheep's Black and Gray Stripe Flannel, 100% Wool, 57" Wide, $17/yd.
WWN 103

new Now in stock!

This looks and feels like a homespun made of natural color wools. Although hard to find today in the 18th century striped flannels were very commonly used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and shirts and women's petticoats. It was also used for women's gowns and jackets and linings. In the 1776 Pennsylvania Gazette, "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant Woman, hath been about two years in the country, speaks very broken English. . .  had on, when she went away, a striped flannel jacket, patched with striped flannel of a darker colour, a petticoat of the same, striped with sheep's black and yellow" cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 linen thread, unbleached 35/2 linen thread, or gray 50/3 linen thread will all work well for hand sewing this fabric and provide subtle different looks. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool stirpe flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Stripe Flannel, 100% Wool, 54" Wide, $25/yd.
WWN 101

new Now in stock!

This beautiful flannel is luxuriously soft and firm. Although hard to find today in the 18th century it was very commonly used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and shirts and women's petticoats. It was also used for women's gowns and jackets and linings. In the 1773 Providence Gazette, "RUN away . . .  a Negro Man Servant . . .  had on . . .  a striped flannel shirt . . .  a dark striped Waistcoat" cited in Taylor and Sweet, Runaways, Deserters, and Notorious Villains From Rhode Island Newspapers Volume 2, 2001. Brown 50/3 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this fabric. For sewing button holes try brown silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool stirpe flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue Gray Stripe Cassimere, 90% Wool/ 10% Cashmere, 59" Wide, $20/yd.
WWN 111

new Soft!

This luxuriously soft and firmly woven striped flannel weight cashmere blend was called cassimere and patented in 1766. It begins to be seen in descriptions in about 1782. It is well suited for lining material, men's jackets, shirts and waistcoats, and women's petticoats, gowns and jackets. The Proceedings of the Old Bailey, of 1782 "MARY CLARKE was indicted for stealing . . .  a cassimere waistcoat, value 6 d." Navy blue 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue and White Stripe Flannel, 100% Wool, 58" Wide, $25/yd.
WWN 102

new Don't miss this one! Very limited supply.

This beautifully soft and firm striped flannel is hard to find today. In the 18th century it was very commonly used for men's waistcoats, jackets and shirts and women's petticoats. It was also used for women's gowns and jackets and linings. In the 1775 Pennsylvania Gazette , "Run away . . .  a native Irish servant woman. . .  says she has a husband in the army at Boston. . .  had on and took with her. . .  a striped flannel petticoat" cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Navy blue 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

Add Blue and White Striped Flannel WWN 102 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Light Brown Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $10/yd.
WWC 301

Scottish plaid made entirely of shades of brown can be made using natural undyed wools. Wool plaids were popular in the early to mid 19th century although uncommon in 18th century America it is occasionally mentioned. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Unbleached 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This pattern is identical to the gray black plaid below.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Brown Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $10/yd.
WWC 300

Plaid made entirely of shades of brown can be made using natural undyed wools. Plaids were common in the 19th century for men's trousers, coats, jackets and vests. Although plaid was not common in early America it is occasionally mentioned. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Plaids like this were common in the early to mid 19th century. Unbleahced 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This pattern is identical to the brown light brown plaid above.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Gray Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWC 102

Scottish plaid like this may be made of all natural dyestuffs and common in the Highlands but was not common in early America but it does occasionally show up. This twill besides gray and black has red, blue, and tan in the warp and blue in the weft. For example in The New York Journal of 1774, "Ran away . . .  two Scotch indented servants, viz. a woman . . .  it is very probable she may change her dress, as she took with her, a green gown, and one of Scotch plaid, with several short gowns of Scotch stuff." As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Blue and Red Plaid Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $10/yd.


WWT 221

This plaid nor the ones above are clan tartans. Clan tartan began in the 19th century. Prior to this time there was a great abundance of tartans as may be seen for example in this detail of David Allan's The Highland Wedding painted in 1780. Black 60/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing this wool. This flannel is a twill.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Claret Coloured Flannel, 100% Wool, 61" Wide, $20.00/yd.
WWN 108

new Luxiourious!

This luxiourious Italian wool comes from the colection of Loro Piana. Claret was one of a range of reds obtained by the dye of the madder root and was therefore less expensive than scarlet red. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel jackets for men and petticoats for women were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . .  an Irish servant woman . . .  Had on, and took with her . . .  three petticoats, [one of them] a red flannel". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Claret linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing matches this fabric. For sewing button holes try claret silk quilter's thread.

Add Claret Coloured Flannel WWN 108 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Scarlet Red Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $16.00/yd.
WWL 304

Scarlet red wool flannel was died with the shell of a beetle and therefore more expensive than the duller reds obtained from the madder root. Red shirts were taken with the Voyage of Discovery in the early 19th century but these should be looked at as unusual for the 18th century. Red flannel jackets for men and petticoats for women were common in both England and New England. In The Pennsylvania Packet of 1773 "Ran away . . .  a mulatto wench . . .  had on and took with her . . .  a red flannel quilted petticoat". As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Scarlet red linen thread 50/3 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a twill. For sewing button holes try scarlet silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Reddish Colour'd Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $19.00/yd.
WWN 110

new Soft!

This beautiful color was one of a range of reds obtained by the dye of the madder root and was therefore less expensive than scarlet red. A wonderfully soft tabby wool used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and coats and women's gowns and petticoats. For example in The Pennsylvania Mercury and Universal Advertiser of 1775, "Run away . . .  an English woman . . .  had on [an . . .  old patched reddish colour’d gown" is cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Madder 50/3 linen thread would would blend with this fabric well for hand sewing. For sewing button holes try madder silk button hole twist.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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White Flannel, 100% Wool, 11.5 oz., 60" Wide, $17/yd.
WWL 305

White wool flannel was the most common color of flannel during the 18th and early 19th centuries. White flannel was especially used to make shirts, shifts and petticoats in the 18th century. For example, in February, 1774, "an Indian girl" was advertised in Rhode Island and the ad continued, "had on when she went away a flannel shift" as advertised in Rhode Island. Off white linen thread 60/2 for hand sewing and 1/2" and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave and not a snow white but more of a natural creamy white. For sewing button holes try white silk button hole twist.

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Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Pale Blue Flannel, 100% Wool, 58" Wide, $20.00/yd.
WWN 109

new Soft!

This beautiful wool is a wonderfully soft tabby wool used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and coats and women's gowns and petticoats. A wonderfully soft tabby wool used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and coats and women's gowns and petticoats. For example in The Pennsylvania Packet of 1779, "Ran Away . . .  a Negro Wench . . .  had on when she went away . . .  a pale blue flannel petticoat" is cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Pale blue 50/3 linen thread would would blend with this fabric well for hand sewing. For sewing button holes try blue silk button hole twist.

Add Pale Blue Flannel WWN 110 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Green Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $20.00/yd.
WWN 112

new Soft!

This beautiful wool is a wonderfully soft tabby wool used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and coats and women's gowns and petticoats. A wonderfully soft tabby wool used for men's waistcoats, jackets, and coats and women's gowns and petticoats. For example in The Pennsylvania Gazette of 1773, "Run away . . .  a Dutch servant Girl . . .  had on, when she went away, a green woollen woman's jacket" is cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls. Green 50/3 linen thread would would blend with this fabric well for hand sewing. For sewing button holes try green silk button hole twist.

Add Green Flannel WWN 112 to Cart

Wool flannel fabric swatch for 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Black Flannel, 100% Wool, 60" Wide, $15/yd.
WWT 310 Not pictured

As cited in Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls "Run Away . . .  an Irish servant girl . . .  had on, and took with her . . .  a black and white linsey petticoat, black quilt[ed petticoat], a flannel ditto [petticoat]" was advertised in The Pennsylvania Gazette in 1773. Black 50/3 linen thread or 60/2 linen thread for hand sewing and 1/2", 5/8, and 7/8" worsted wool tape matches this fabric. Matching tape is usually what is seen on the hems of petticoats and binding of bedgowns. This flannel is a plain weave. For sewing button holes try black silk button hole twist or quilter's thread.

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Bay

Bay was used from the 17th century up to the early 19th century when it was being replaced by cotton fabrics. Bay was a coarse, open, plain weave wool made of worsted warp and woolen weft threads. Bay was mostly used as a lining for British and German soldiers' uniforms up to 1802 and habits of monks and nuns. Bay was also used by some specialized craftsmen to use behind looking glasses to preserve the tin and as a lining in cases for example. Much of the information on bay is gathered from Textiles in America 1650-1870.

Thanks to the hard work of James Kochan and Sean Phillips our bay is museum quality reproduction bay woven in England today to specific standards and has the same appearance, weave, milling, and finish as bay made in the late 18th century.
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Natural White Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $32.50/yd.
WWK 200

Natural white bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have white turnbacks. Off white 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

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Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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British Royal Blue Bay, 100% Wool, 5 oz/sq yd, 52" Wide, $32.50/yd.
WWK 201

British royal blue bay wool was used for the lining of British infantry coats which have blue turnbacks. Navy blue 35/2 linen thread matches this fabric best when hand sewing your quality reproduction garment.

Add British Royal Blue Bay WWK 201 to Cart

Wool bay fabric swatch for 17th century, 18th century, and 19th century re-enactors, military historians, and museum interpreters.
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Bag Hose | Broadcloth | Worsted | Flannel | Bay | Jean Cloth/Virginia Cloth | Specialty Weaves

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