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Basic Linen Fabric | Solid Color Linen Fabric | Check and Stripe Linen Fabric Check and Stripe Linen Fabric100% linenBesides white and unbleached linen fabric the next most common described in 18th century documents are stripe and check linen fabric. These provided patterned fabric without the expense of block printing. Most common were blue on white then brown on white then mixes of those colors. After these (most common) colors, black, red, gray, yellow, and green were less common colors woven into checks and stripes. Much of the information on these pages is gathered from the book Textiles in America 1650-1870. Basic Linen Fabric | Solid Color Linen Fabric | Check and Stripe Linen Fabric |
Diaper Cloth WLN 105
Birdseye weave made of linen was called diaper cloth in the 17th to 19th centuries. One of its primary uses was to make baby's clouts also called pilchers or pilches which ultimately resulted in American's word for baby's diapers. Diaper cloth was often used for table cloths, napkins and wash clouts but was also used to make children's pin cloths, men's breeches, jackets and waistcoats. In the 1775 The Connecticut Courant, an ad included "New-Gate Prison was broke up, and the following prisoners made the escape, viz. . . . an Irishman . . . wore a . . . white diaper jacket" which is shared from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing. |
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Blue and Natural Stripe Ticking WLG 155
Temporarily out of stock Ticking in the 17th and 18th centuries was made of linen and could be either striped or white (natural). When striped it was usually blue and white (or natural). This ticking is unusual in that it has a herringbone weave although this is very subtle. Ticking was used to make bed ticks, bolsters and pillows but was also used to make men's breeches, trousers, waistcoats and jackets and women's pockets and stays. Ticking was also sometimes used as a lining. In the 1772 The Virginia Gazette, an ad included "RAN away . . . Two Irish Convict Servant Men . . . [the first] had on . . . a Pair of coarse strip'd Ticken Breeches . . . [and the other] had on . . . a Pair of coarse Ticken Breeches". Unbleached 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing will work well. |
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Red and Natural Stripe Ticking WLG 151
Ticking in the 17th and 18th centuries was made of linen and could be either striped or white (natural). When striped it was sometimes red and white (or natural). This ticking is unusual in that it has a herringbone weave although this is very subtle. Certain Hessian regiments during the American Revolution wore red stripe ticking gaitered trousers. Ticking was used to make bed ticks, bolsters and pillows but was also used to make men's breeches, trousers, waistcoats and jackets and women's pockets and stays. Ticking was also sometimes used as a lining. In the 1772 The Providence Gazette, an ad included "RAN away . . . a Negro Man Servant . . . had on and carried away with him . . . one Pair new striped Ticken Trowsers". Unbleached 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White 5/16" Stripe WLG 156
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. From personal communication with Mike Barbieri in the 1768 The New-London Gazette, an ad included "Run-away . . . a Negro Woman . . . carried off with her one home-spun check’d Woollen Gown, one blue and white striped Linen Ditto". White linen thread for hand sewing and white cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Wide Blue and White Stripe WLN 584
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1776 Pennsylvania Gazette, an ad included "Was stolen . . . a pair of blue and white striped trowsers" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. White linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Blue and White Stripe 1/8" WLN 674
Blue and white stripe linens dominate the 18th and early 19th century. This stripe linen would make a lite man's jacket or waistcoat but may also be used for linings and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats. In the book Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls there is an entry for 1781 in The American Journal, "the House of the Subscriber, in Cranston, was broken open, and the following Articles were stolen . . . one striped Linen Petticoat" Off white linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White Stripe WLN 691
Blue and white stripe linens dominate the 18th and early 19th century. This stripe linen would make a lite man's jacket or waistcoat but may also be used for linings and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats. In the book Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls there is an entry for 1781 in The American Journal, "the House of the Subscriber, in Cranston, was broken open, and the following Articles were stolen . . . one striped Linen Petticoat" Off white linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White Stripe 5/16" WLG 216
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts and seen in swatch books. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. From personal communication with Mike Barbieri in the 1768 The New-London Gazette, an ad included "Run-away . . . a Negro Woman . . . carried off with her one home-spun check’d Woollen Gown, one blue and white striped Linen Ditto". White linen thread for hand sewing and white cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Light Blue and White Stripe WLN 580
This is a nice light indigo blue stripe all shades of which are the most commonly described in runaway accounts of the 18th and early 19th century. They were commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white stripe linen. In the 1775 Pennsylvania Packet, an ad included "Run away . . . an indented servant woman . . . had on . . . a blue and white striped short gown" as cited in Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls. White linen thread for hand sewing and white 1" cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Indigo Blue Striped WLG 302
This blue striped linen has an 1/8" dark indigo blue stripe with 3/8" creamy white which is identical to some seen in The Foundling Museum and in 18th century period artwork. Blue striped linen like this was commonly used for women's petticoats, jackets, and gowns. Men's waistcoats and shirts as well as an occasional lining were also made of blue and white striped linen. In the 1774 Boston Evening Post, an ad reported "Ran away . . . an Apprentice . . . to a Shoemaker’s Trade . . . He carried away . . . one striped Linen Shirt" used from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white linen thread for hand sewing and white cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Light Indigo Blue Stripe WLN 686
Blue and white stripes are some of the most commonly described in runaway accounts. This stripe is heavy enough to be used for women's and men's jackets and men's waistcoats but would work well for a pair of trousers as well as an occasional lining. This could also be used for a women's gown or petticoat. Taken from the Brigade Dispatch XXXVI No. 1. Spring 2006 an ad in The Boston Gazette of 1774, included "Ran-away . . . a likely tall Negro Woman . . . has a . . . a stript blue and white Holland Gown". Off white 35/2 linen thread for hand sewing and white cotton twill tape would work well for this material. |
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Indigo 1/8" Stripe WHP 107
Blue and white stripe was very common for the laboring people throughout Europe and the New World. It is repeatedly described in runaway descriptions and several original garments are made of very similar linen. This hemp blend is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, shirts, trousers, breeches, work aprons, workmen's caps and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Pennsylvania Evening Post in 1777 "Ran away . . . an Irish servant girl . . . Had on, when she went away, a blue and white striped linen gown". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural, blue or navy blue all match this fabric well. Tape of matching color is often what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Blue and White Check WLG 181100% Linen, ~6.5 oz., ~58" Wide, $19.99/yd. Reproduction check with an American provenance! This check linen is woven based on our research of check linens made and used in the 18th and early 19th century America and England. This weight is suitable for working class shirts and aprons. Although not copied from any one original, it is extremely similar to several original check linens for example see Figure 15 of the book Threads of Feeling, see samples 6, 14, 35, 40, 43, 47, 56, 58, 89, and 90 of the 1771 Textile sample book of the Manchester manufacturing firm of Benjamin and John Bower. Most checks available today are half white and half blue. The majority of checks found in the billet books at The Foundling Museum in London are mostly white with narrower blue stripes resulting in a check many modern people would think of more as a plaid. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1776 Connecticut Courant, "RAN AWAY . . . a Mustee Fellow . . . had on when he went off . . . a check linen shirt blue and white" from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 60/2 or 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Blue and White Check WLG 161100% Linen, 6.5 oz., 58" Wide, $22.50/yd. This check linen is woven based on our research of check linens made and used in the 18th and early 19th century America and England. The weight is suitable for working class shirts and aprons. It is extremely similar to several original check linens found in museums. Most checks available today are half white and half blue. The majority of checks found in the billet books at The Foundling Museum in London are mostly white with narrower blue stripes resulting in a check many modern people would think of more as a plaid. This fabric was commonly made into women's aprons and men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros), trousers or even bonnets. In the 1776 Connecticut Courant, "RAN AWAY . . . had on when he went off . . . a check linen shirt blue and white" from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 60/2 or 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Brown and White Check WLG 191100% Linen, 6.5 oz., 58" Wide, $21.99/yd. This check linen is woven based on a pattern of our research of check linens made and used in the 18th and early 19th century America and England. The original was a blue on white but this is otherwise similar to several original check linens found in swatch books. Most checks available today are half white and half brown. The majority of checks found in the billet books at The Foundling Museum in London are mostly white with narrower stripes resulting in a check many modern people would think of more as a plaid. This fabric can possibly be used to make men's shirts but may also be used for linings and occasionally for women's gowns (usually Negros). In the 1769 Boston Evening Post, "Run away . . . two indented Men Servants, the one . . . Had on when he went away, a check’d Linen Shirt" from personal communication with Mike Barbieri. Off white 35/2 linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Dark Red and White Stripe WLN 610100% Linen, ~5 oz., 58" Wide, $22.50/yd. Sometimes red and white stripe linens were used in the 18th century for men's trousers, jackets or waistcoats but may also be used for linings and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats. In the book Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls there is an entry for 1781 in The Pennsylvania Packet, "Ran away . . . a Scotch Servant Girl . . . had on and took away . . . a . . . short gown . . . red stripe linen, home made." Off white linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Red and White Stripe WLN 579100% Linen, ~5 oz., 58" Wide, $16.99/yd. Sometimes red and white stripe linens were used in the 18th century for men's trousers, jackets or waistcoats but may also be used for linings and for women's gowns and petticoats. In the book Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls there is an entry for 1773 in The New York Journal, "Ran away . . . a servant woman . . . [and] two sailors, who are supposed to have assisted her in robbing her master, and are gone off with her. One an Irishman . . . he wore . . . a red and white stip’d waistcoat." White linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Red and White 1/8" Stripe WLN 673100% Linen, ~5 oz., 59" Wide, $15.99/yd. Sometimes red and white stripe linens were used in the 18th century for men's trousers, jackets or waistcoats but may also be used for linings and for women's gowns, jackets and petticoats. In the book Wenches, Wives and Servant Girls there is an entry for 1781 in The Pennsylvania Packet, "Ran away from . . . a Scotch Servant Girl . . . had on and took away with her . . . one ditto [short gown], red stripe linen, home made, &c. &c." Off white linen thread will work well for hand sewing. |
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Red 1/8" Stripe WHP 109
Red and white stripe linen was not as common as other colors but it does show up occasionally. This hemp linen is tightly woven and prewashed. It has numerous uses. For women: petticoats, gowns and jackets. For men: waistcoats, jackets, trousers, breeches, shirts, work aprons, workmen's caps, and outer breeches (commonly known as slops although this term actually refers to all unfitted clothing). Stripe linen is an excellent choice for children's clothing too. For example in The Virginia Gazette of 1773, "RUN away . . . two convict servant men . . . [one of them] by trade a cooper, born in Ireland, and has a good deal of the brougue . . . Had on, and carried with him . . . a red and white striped cotton and linen jacket, with sleeves, double breasted, and the stripes across". Linen thread for hand sewing in 35/2 off white and 1" cotton twill tape natural matches this fabric well. Tape of matching color is sometimes what is used as binding on women's petticoats and gowns. |
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Brown 1/8" Stripe, 55% hemp/45% organic cotton, 8.5 oz., 59" wide, $21.95/yd.
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Basic Linen Fabric | Solid Color Linen Fabric | Check and Stripe Linen Fabric
