Man’s Shirt 1790-1830


Pattern by: Kannik’s Korner

Includes all sizes XS-XXXL</p

Made in the USA


Man’s federalist period pullover shirt pattern with shoulder reinforcement panels, neck and underarm gussets, to be made plain for the common man or fancy with chest ruffles for the gentleman. This pattern will make a shirt that is identical to this extant shirt at the National Maritime Museum. In The Providence Gazette of 1795, “RAN AWAY . . .  an indented Servant . . .  had on, and carried with him . . .  2 striped blue and white [wool] Flannel Shirts, and 1 white Tow and Linen Shirt”.

460 in stock

SKU: 199 Category:


A shirt requires about 3 yards of linen in the early 19th century or 5 yards for 2. Most soldiers were issued off white linen shirts, but most working class men had natural unbleached linen shirts. Sailors, soldier’s work shirts & civilian laborers also wore blue check linen shirts. Gentleman & officers (when wearing a stock at the neck) wore finer & whiter linen shirts with ruffles which require a quarter yard of fine linen or muslin. Most soldier’s shirts also had a cheaper quality of finer linen ruffles at the bosom slit.

Notions required include a spool of 60/2 linen thread in white, off white or unbleached to match the shirt, 1, 2 or 3 thread buttons on the collar & sleeve buttons at the wrist or 1 thread button at each wrist which is what this pattern calls for. By the 1830s bone & shell buttons began to be mass produced & become an option this pattern doesn’t recommend.

For winter wear, shirts were frequently made of natural white wool flannel but red wool flannel and yellow wool flannel were also being used (check & stripe wool flannel was also used but is very difficult to find today) which may be substituted for the 3 yards of linen above. Don’t be fooled, this flannel is soft next to the skin & really helps when it’s cold out!